Proper Carbonara

Method

1. Cut the guanciale into short batons. Put it in a cold, dry pan and bring it up to medium — starting cold renders the fat properly. Cook until deep golden, then kill the heat.
2. Whisk the yolks, whole egg, grated pecorino and a truly aggressive amount of black pepper into a thick paste in a bowl.
3. Boil the pasta in well-salted water until 1 minute short of the packet time. Reserve a big mug of pasta water.
4. Loosen the egg mixture with 2–3 tbsp of the hot pasta water, whisking constantly, so it is warm and pourable.
5. Off the heat, tip the drained pasta into the guanciale pan, toss in the fat, then pour in the egg mixture and toss hard and fast.
6. Add splashes of pasta water until it turns glossy and coats every strand. If it scrambles, the pan was too hot — that is the whole game.